Sawasdee ka.

Mai kao jai is Thai for "I don't understand." It's a fitting phrase to describe my experience here as an expat. The more I learn about the Thai culture and language, the more layers of misunderstanding I uncover. Thailand is a mystery wrapped in a riddle wrapped in a vest.

Despite my lack of fluency with the language and the customs, I'm having a wonderful time and learning a lot.

Today Thai music is being broadcast from the outdoor speakers in town. We can hear it from our condo. The speakers are necessary because every day at 8 am and 6 pm, the national anthem is played for everyone to hear. It's these other, serendipitous (to me--I'm sure there is some kind of method to it) occurrences of public music that I enjoy.

Last week I was a judge in a national competition for young musicians that included performers of both Western and Thai music. I have rarely felt so unqualified for my job. I tried to judge all of the candidates on what I thought were universal criteria--staying together as an ensemble, showing the motion of phrases, keeping a steady tempo, playing with clean technique--but who knows? Perhaps I was missing the point. I do know that the Thai music I've heard since coming here has been very interesting and always pleasant to hear, and when it comes over the speakers like this morning, it's an unexpected and happy addition to the day.